TOBIA - Made in Italy

Behind the Stitches

TOBIA deeply embodies the philosophy and impeccable craftsmanship of bespoke suiting. Click on the drawing below to learn more about the elements behind every stitch our Italian tailors make.








Behind The Stitches

Italy's Finest Cotton Mother of Pearl Buttons Finishing stitches Sartorial Pant Front Custom Shirt Collar Single-Needle Construction Hand Sewn Buttonholes Hand Canvassing
Italy's Finest Cotton
Italy's Finest CottonFor centuries, Italy’s mills in Piemonte have been collecting and refining the world’s most preeminent cotton. They are renowned the world over for their careful selection of long staple yarns and the milling techniques used to create luxurious fabrics of unparalleled quality with a natural sheen and characteristic. It is from a vast array of these precious fabrics, including Egyptian Giza-45 and Sea Island cottons, that TOBIA makes the most stylish and truly Italian custom shirt possible. We blend Italian sartorial tradition and your individual preferences to create a garment made perfectly for you.

Mother-of-Pearl Buttons
Mother-of-Pearl ButtonsOn any fine dress shirt, the mother-of-pearl button is the proverbial “cherry on top”, the veritable punctuation on the mark of excellence. Not only is it more elegant than other buttons, but mother-of-pearl also wears longer and is so hard it could break the needle of a sewing machine. Not that our buttons go anywhere near a machine! Our tailor in Italy carefully hand stitches each one onto your TOBIA shirt in a sartorial  giglio. Once it arrives in the U.S., we bring you the finished product in our signature fabric envelope, which can be used to preserve your shirt’s integrity during washing.

Finishing Stitches
Finishing StitchesFinishing stitches, also called pick stitching, are placed on the edge of a garment to hold the edge crisp and flat and to prevent rolling. This is not critical to the structure of a custom suit but gives it a noticeable sartorial look. For this reason, TOBIA always suggests finishing stitches around the collar and pockets of suit jackets and proposes additional finishing according to each client’s style, as well as the position on the garment and the intended use. Larger spaced stitching is called for on a sport jacket and less formal fabrics, while tighter, more discreet stitching is always in order on elegant garments. The attention to the smallest detail distinguishes a beautifully made-to-measure TOBIA suit from any other.

Sartorial Pant Front
Sartorial Pant FrontFor a truly classic element in the Italian sartorial tradition, TOBIA proposes a button-front panel on the trousers of our custom suits. With a pleated pant, the button-front serves to eliminate bulk and allow the front panel to fold easily when sitting or moving. This also provides our clients a very comfortable fit. Your Personal Clothier will likely suggest a zipper on a straight front pant for a slim look but with a pleated trouser the button-front placket is a classic tailored detail.

Custom Shirt Collar
Custom Shirt CollarIt takes a wide spectrum of custom shirt collars to satisfy the style considerations of a variety of men. With TOBIA, the options are literally limitless and the shirt will always be made to your satisfaction. Whether you prefer a straight point collar with long tips or a cutaway collar with a wide spread, your expert Personal Clothier will guide you in making the right choice for your face shape and neck size. Together, you will also take into consideration the rigidity of the interfacing that suits your lifestyle and dress needs. Our infinite collar options, coupled with time-honored tailoring techniques, ensure a custom shirt artfully crafted to your tastes.

Single-Needle Construction
Single-Needle ConstructionHigh-quality dress shirts, like TOBIA’s, are carefully crafted using only single needle construction, a process that involves setting a seam with one stitch and reinforcing it with another. The visible result is single rows of stitches that “outline” the seams. The advantage to the TOBIA client includes more durable seams, which look neater and feel more comfortable against the body. Single needle craftsmanship is an expensive process that requires substantial handwork and artisan attention, but for such an exceptional outcome, it’s worth it.

Handsewn Buttonholes
Handsewn ButtonholesSome might like to argue the point of non-working vs. working buttonholes. At TOBIA, we propose a slightly different discussion: the difference between buttonholes made by a machine versus those crafted by an artisan. We think the choice is clear and, for that reason, insist our tailors in Italy carefully handsew the buttonhole of every TOBIA suit jacket or blazer. They painstakingly work around each opening in the fabric, laboring the gimp and buttonhole twist in a unique manner from the front to the back of the garment. The result, robust and elegant, is immediately discernible to the naked eye and, of course, to the touch. It is just one of the many small, but meticulous details behind your TOBIA suit.

Hand Canvassing
Hand CanvassingCanvas is one of the most important aspects in the structure of your custom suit. When fashioned by hand, the canvas floats between the inner and outer layers of the jacket. This process, which is only possible through a rare combination of time, attention and skill, ensures a superb fit and unparalleled ease of movement. The canvas on a TOBIA suit runs fully from collar to hem and is made only of the finest camelhair and horsehair fibers. The end result of these “little” details is a suit that conforms to your body and wears more elegantly over time.

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