TOBIA looks forward to an exciting year of sharing with VYC members the inner world of sartorial style garments made entirely in Italy.  Check back here for more information coming this spring.

From Whence It Came

The origins that tie the color to elegance stem from the fact that at the turn of the century only men of serious means could permit themselves to wear a shirt that required daily washing and ironing.  Luckily we have progressed to the point where most men have a white shirt of some type in their wardrobe and the question becomes what characteristics should the ideal white dress shirt?  The answers depend on the personal style of the wearer but TOBIA has a few opinions on the topic and suggests you keep at least two types of white shirts in your closet.

The Casual Shirt

The first should be appropriate to wear with “smart casual” – jeans and a blazer or with a beautiful double-breasted cashmere coat without a jacket.  For this version, choose a soft, fine fabric to wear without an undershirt.  If your shape permits, opt for a slim fit without exaggerating of course.  The effect of muscles exploding out of a shirt is never elegant.  We advise a medium rigid collar.  Pay attention when choosing a soft collar because it tends to wilt after little wear and does not maintain the ever-fresh look of a more rigid collar.  TOBIA is in love with stitching on the edge of the collar and cuffs with single buttons.

If you appreciate fine details, ask for buttonholes sewn by hand.  You pay decidedly more for them (if someone asks less than $50 for them you should be skeptical) but you will never regret the choice.  It’s worth every penny.  For those that like a personal touch, we suggest hand-stitched initials on the left just below the middle of the shirt.  Consider a blue on white to match the contrasting thread on the buttonhole of the collar.

The Elegant Shirt

This brings us to the more formal shirt that you want to have in your wardrobe, which will be appropriate for your most important business meetings.  You’ll want to choose a thicker fabric which allows you to wear an undershirt keeping you fresher all day, especially in the summer.  This avoids the unfortunate effect of sweat seeping through too-fine fabrics.  In this case, we suggest a monogram of white on white or a very pale almost imperceptible grey.  Hand-made buttonholes are not really necessary as you’ll most always be wearing a tie and the extra effort will be wasted, even if you will always know the difference.  French cuffs 3 ½ inches wide with a rigid collar and no tie space complete the look.  The size and shape of the collar should, of course, always be chosen according to your face and neck.  TOBIA likes to see their shirts point out of the jacket about 1 ¼ inches.

For the buttons, the icing on the proverbial cake, there is only one choice for a shirt of any type – mother-of-pearl.  They are elegant , resistant and  the hallmark of a truly fine shirt.

The Fabric Choice

The best fabric is a finely woven wool of Super 130′s or higher and of 17 microns or less.  You will find any of these qualities in a four-season weave, which will be comfortable for any temperature.  If you choose a very dark blue, the preference for the most formal occasions, you can make it a little less somber by choosing a narrow striped tone on tone.  Pay attention that the stripes are just barely noticeable so as not to subtract from the elegance.  The classic four season wool of Loro Piana (pictured here) is an excellent example.

Jacket Style

For the jacket of this most important of wardrobe staples, TOBIA is especially keen on the three-button folded down to two.  It is an excellent compromise between elegance and seriousness though you should always pay attention to your body shape when making this choice.  Men with a more pronounced stomach will want to opt for a shorter drop, or shape of the jacket, and consider the more body flattering two-button jacket.  Total top stitching on the jacket, which includes the collar, sleeves, shoulders and back, adds a decidedly Italian touch.  For those who have the fortune of a top physical condition, we recommend pants with one pleat and a button-fly closure together with a 1 ½ to 1 ¾ inch cuff.  In this case, the morta sua — Italian for the proverbial icing on the cake — would be sartorial top-stitching on the outside of the pants.

Choosing the Shirt & Other Details

The dress shirt chosen to accompany your suit can be white — for an evening event it is almost obligatory — or very light colored.  TOBIA’s favorite shirt is the mille righe, a blue and white pencil line from a finely woven cotton fabric like this one pictured here.  In any case, an elegant silk tie in dark tones is required.  A light colored tie on a light shirt results in too much contrast and a decidedly less elegant image.

For the final touch, hand-sewn buttonholes on the jacket are a must if you have access to a talented tailor.  It’s not enough just to have working buttonholes.  The unique manner in which the gimp and twist are hand labored from the front to the back of the garment is a robust and elegant result immediately discernible to the naked eye.  This difference, along with the others suggested, will transform your run of the mill blue suit into an extraordinary blue suit to carry you through the most important of occasions.

As to the particulars of the garment, TOBIA suggests midnight blue, very dark. This color choice guarantees an elegant ensemble that is always in style yet just a splash different than the standard black. Consider a collar with peak satin lapels and a one-button jacket with a fine stitching on the borders and opening of the sleeves. What other options are there for a man to distinguish himself in a tuxedo, yet maintain perfect elegance? Hand-sewn buttonholes on the jacket. They complete the suit, never age in the closet and will continue to give you grand satisfaction throughout the years.

The Perfect Shirt

Strictly white. There is no other option.  Though you can choose a pleated, finely pin-striped or plain front placket according to your taste, the overriding color must be white.  And to set it all off and use those heirloom cufflinks you have, you’ll want a french cuffed shirt with open buttonholes for your coordinating tuxedo studs. It isn’t necessary that they come from the same set but the overall look should be cohesive.

The last important detail to consider on the shirt is a double collar that is guaranteed to set you apart. It not only hides the string of the bow tie but it also keeps it comfortably in place all night long so you can focus on enjoying the party.

Attention to Accessories

It sounds easy enough but there are a few errors here to avoid. We prefer the cummerbund together with the bow tie, both obviously black and obviously silk. The bow tie should never have a manufactured knot. Learn how to tie one the old-fashioned way. It’s just like tying a regular bow and makes a rich, notable difference in the ensemble. The cummerbund should always have the folds facing upward. Remember, they were originally used to hold theater tickets.

The only choice for the shoes is patent leather. They can be either lace-ups or loafers with a silk bow — if you have the courage to wear them.

Wear It Well & With Confidence

Last but equally important to consider are both the proper fit and the proper occasion. As to the fit, the sleeves of the jacket should never be too long. Make sure the shirt cuffs point out one inch to give just the right contrast between the bright white & deep blue of the tuxedo. The jacket should be form-fitting but not too tight with a delineated waist and a lapel that lays down smoothly on the chest.

As to the proper occasion, a modicum of attention must be paid. Even if American norms have enlarged the possibilities for donning a tuxedo to include weddings, the tuxedo is traditionally festive attire and should be worn only at night. In Europe and especially in Italy, a wedding is considered a serious religious ceremony and not a party which requires a dark suit, not a tuxedo. To wear one to the wedding could be considered offensive. As an alternative, you can consider a morning coat for formal daytime occasions.

If you follow our well-laid out guidelines, you are sure to have an elegant black-tie ensemble in which to cut your dashing figure and one that will carry you through many more event seasons to come.

More than 100 golfers participated in the tournament, dinner and auctions, including the live auction conducted with great effect and humor by former NY Giants center, Shaun O’Hara, and his assistant, Annabelle Christ an extraordinary young girl who is fighting CF every day.  Participants were also privileged to know Conor Reid, a high school senior with CF, who despite the two hours of treatment he must undergo every day, exhibits an amazingly positive attitude about the remaining 22 hours that his daily investment affords him.

Today, advances in research and medical treatments have further enhanced and extended life for children and adults with CF.  Many people with the disease can now expect to live into their 30s, 40s and beyond.  This is in stark contrast to the 1950s, when few children with Cystic Fibrosis lived to attend elementary school.

Click here to make a contribution that could change the life of someone living with Cystic Fibrosis. Ninety cents of every dollar you contribute goes directly to find the cure.

The TOBIA team was on hand to educate the evening’s 100 lucky guests about the Art of Imperfection and our recently arrived collection of spectacular 3-ply cashmere.  Despite the gloomy weather,  Captain Brad Momsen and crew treated everyone to unforgettable evening in a truly unique environment.

TOBIA CEO, Francesco Leone with Personal Clothier, Karim Ferrell

TOBIA CEO, Francesco Leone, with Eric Dahler of Vintage Yachting Club

The sweaters are available in a wide variety of colors and can even be customized to accommodate special lengths, widths and other requests.  If you prefer your sweater to zip instead of button or if you’d like to your cardigan with or without pockets, we are pleased to loom it according to your preferences.  Once you touch the blanket soft 3-ply cashmere, the most difficult part will be choosing your favorite color from the 10 we offer and the endless style possibilities.

Schedule a private fitting or call your Personal Clothier today.  You’ll want to have one of TOBIA’s sweaters on hand when the leaves start to fall.

While guests enjoyed a live jazz band and artfully conceived hors d’oeuvres, they had the opportunity to learn about TOBIA’s world of unmatched, made-to-measure craftsmanship and TOBIA’s own Art of Imperfection.  Founder Francesco Leone and his team were on hand to enlighten participants on a selection of summer-ready suits, custom shirts, silk knit ties and linen pocket squares, all of which were showcased at the event.  A few lucky guests even went home with a TOBIA knit tie courtesy of the evening’s raffle, vivaciously conducted by the Club Mac’s General Manager, Mauricio Córdoba.

The artisan drinks, outstanding cigars, and charming staff all contributed to a truly luxurious experience.  In the end, the evening was the ideal launch of the Club Macanudo and TOBIA partnership that will feature a number of events and special collaborations throughout the coming year.

TOBIA is an Italian menswear brand devoted to made-to-measure custom suits and custom shirts entirely crafted in Italy by highly skilled tailors and seamstresses.

TOBIA proudly extends a coveted sartorial experience directly to clients. Its custom garments are the product of talented Italian artisans, fatto a mano, and therefore subject to a beautiful form of imperfection. This shade of imperfection is more of a distinction, a charm, and a quiet stitch of evidence that there was a careful, expert hand responsible for bringing your style aspirations to life.

TOBIA blends the luxury of the made-to-measure experience, with the finest fabrics that are spun, woven and meticulously refined entirely in Italy.

With this unmatched made-to-measure process, TOBIA offers a first hand Italian sarto experience in New York City through its Personal Clothiers. This method moves even beyond personal delivery of made-to-measure garments. Clients are guided through an exclusive library of TOBIA fabric choices, buttons, finishing, and detailed design elements like peak lapels, pick stitching, abundant shirt collars, and colorful suit lining.

Visit the TOBIA Glossary for an in-depth illustration of just some of these seemingly infinite design options. TOBIA inspires, crafts, and educates.