The Ideal Blue Suit
Among the pieces every man should have in his wardrobe is the ideal navy blue suit. It’s appropriate dress for board meetings, European weddings, where tuxedos are taboo, and particularly so for important dinners. For these and other decisive occasions there are few alternatives if you want to maintain elegance and tradition in your dress. There are, however, a few details to consider.
The Fabric Choice
The best fabric is a finely woven wool of Super 130’s or higher and of 17 microns or less. You will find any of these qualities in a four-season weave, which will be comfortable for any temperature. If you choose a very dark blue, the preference for the most formal occasions, you can make it a little less somber by choosing a narrow striped tone on tone. Pay attention that the stripes are just barely noticeable so as not to subtract from the elegance. The classic four season wool of Loro Piana (pictured here) is an excellent example.
For the jacket of this most important of wardrobe staples, TOBIA is especially keen on the three-button folded down to two. It is an excellent compromise between elegance and seriousness though you should always pay attention to your body shape when making this choice. Men with a more pronounced stomach will want to opt for a shorter drop, or shape of the jacket, and consider the more body flattering two-button jacket. Total top stitching on the jacket, which includes the collar, sleeves, shoulders and back, adds a decidedly Italian touch. For those who have the fortune of a top physical condition, we recommend pants with one pleat and a button-fly closure together with a 1 ½ to 1 ¾ inch cuff. In this case, the morta sua — Italian for the proverbial icing on the cake — would be sartorial top-stitching on the outside of the pants.
For the most important occasions, there is little that can satisfy a stylish man’s needs like the ideal blue suit.
Choosing the Shirt & Other Details
The dress shirt chosen to accompany your suit can be white — for an evening event it is almost obligatory — or very light colored. TOBIA’s favorite shirt is the mille righe, a blue and white pencil line from a finely woven cotton fabric like this one pictured here. In any case, an elegant silk tie in dark tones is required. A light colored tie on a light shirt results in too much contrast and a decidedly less elegant image.
For the final touch, hand-sewn buttonholes on the jacket are a must if you have access to a talented tailor. It’s not enough just to have working buttonholes. The unique manner in which the gimp and twist are hand labored from the front to the back of the garment is a robust and elegant result immediately discernible to the naked eye. This difference, along with the others suggested, will transform your run of the mill blue suit into an extraordinary blue suit to carry you through the most important of occasions.